I surfed on Thursday for the first time since December. It’s August. The water was in the mid-to-high 70’s, a rarity for California. Scripp’s Institute noted the temperature as the highest they’ve recorded – ever, for whatever that’s worth. It had been at least a couple years since I had surfed without a wetsuit and…
I hate to advocate drugs, alcohol, violence, or insanity to anyone, but they've always worked for me.
